Frequently Asked Questions about Poultry and Housing

Is the timber you use pressure-treated?

Yes it is. All the timber is Scandinavian Redwood which is pressure treated with eco-friendly Tanilith-E and all cut ends are finished by us after construction. See the section 'About our Housing'.

Can the hens get out through the heart window or other birds get in?

No the heart is a sealed window covered with polycarbonate, not a hole. It is not essential, it just lets light in and allows you to view the birds inside without opening the door.

Do I have to have the heart window?

No not at all. Not everyone wants a heart window and many prefer to keep the henhouse quite dark inside so you just have to let us know when ordering that you prefer no heart decoration. We do also offer a Chicken window option in the chicken coop section

Is it necessary to keep a cockerel?

No it isn't. The hens will lay eggs and do all natural things very well without one. The only need for a cockerel is if you intend to breed from them, and as you can buy fertile eggs easily these days even that is not necessary. They are beautiful birds and like to 'look after' their girls but, they crow loudly; the neighbours will complain; they can't protect the hens against the fox.

How much food and water do chickens need?

Average amounts required each day. This average though depends on size of bird, whether they free-range or not, and what time of year it is.
Laying hens, per bird, per day: 130 - 150g Layers Pellets, 20g Mixed Corn; 300ml clean fresh water (perhaps more in hot summers - do not forget to frequently make sure water is not frozen in cold weather or put waterer inside house to keep ice free).

Do chickens need grit and oyster shell?

Chickens need to take in grit to help digest their food. The grit helps grind down the food the hens eat because as everyone knows, chickens don't have teeth (hence the term "as rare as hens teeth"!) If your hens free-range then it is likely that they already get enough grit in their diet, but if they are confined to a run you should provide a Poultry Grit and Oyster Shell, this can be bought as either a mixed grit or separately.

Oyster Shell provides calcium - they use calcium to form the shells on their eggs so if they calcium deficient you will get soft eggs or eggs with no shell. You should provide oyster shell either scattered or in a small pot. This will help them lay hard-shelled eggs and is an essential part of their diet. Some poultry feeds already include a mix of grit and shell e.g. Smallholder Super Mixed Corn.

Where can I get some chicks/hens from?

Take a look in specialist magazines such as Country Smallholding, Practical Poultry or Smallholder as they contain Breeders Directories. Look for one or two locally that you can visit to view the birds and talk to the breeder. Make sure they are vaccinated for Coccidiosis, Mareks Disease and Newcastle Disease. Please do not buy from auctions/local ads unless you are experienced and know what to look for. Taking in ex-battery hens is wonderfully idealistic but we would warn that, if new to poultry keeping, you research as much as possible and are aware of the extra care needed with ex-battery hensas these can bring many psycological problems and sometimes need serious nursing - they have few 'chicken' instincts. If you are in our local area (Dorset/Somerset) we can recommend Dobles Poultry of Yeovil on 01935 862393, please call first.

Which is best, timber houses or plastic?

Obviously we would sound prejudiced on this subject because we prefer timber housing, as well as make it (looking from an eco-friendly point of view a plastic house is not good for the environment) so, let me just quote from an article by the late Katie Thear, beloved, bestselling author on all things chicken, about a plastic henhouse she 'road tested' several years ago .....

"Its advantages were that it was light, easy to move about and to clean. Its disadvantages were numerous: Unless tied down in some way, the house was easily blown over in high winds. In winter, its lack of insulation meant that the chickens were obviously cold at night because they were huddled together in a tightly packed ball of feathers. In warm weather, the interior became so hot that they wouldn't go inside. Condensation was also a problem because, unlike wood, plastic does not breathe. Despite having ventilation apertures, there were still drops of moisture running down the inside walls. Lack of ventilation and a build up of humidity encourage lung problems and the spread of infections.

I'd advise any readers thinking of buying one to first check with the manufacturer:
~ how the price compares with the same sized wooden house
~ what the price is without extras such as chickens, feeders etc.
~ what the price is with and without an attached run
~ if chickens are included, what breed or type are they? how old are they? have they come from a registered flock where vaccinations have been administered?
~ how stable is the house in high winds
~ how effective is the insulation in winter and summer
~ how is it ventilated, and can the ventilation be controlled?
~ is it equipped with a perch, pop-hole and a nest-box that can be accessed from the outside?"
Katie Thear, Published in Country Smallholding Magazine Sept 2007. Reprinted with her kind permission.